It’s a pretty church, but the reason why it’s here is because of the bells. Every quarter hour, a really lovely hymn that we almost recognised, from 6:00 am to 11:00 pm, just an hour or two longer than we would have liked, as we were sleeping with the window open just next door.

Another seat adjustment, as it seemed to have slipped, a few navigation checks and we were off through the stunning Lancashire countryside. Having never been here, it is well underrated. Or maybe they just don’t want tourists. And the best accent of any we have heard; rich, robust and very understandable.

Having stayed high up in Mellor last night, we avoided Blackburn altogether, and were soon cycling on quiet lanes, up to a tiny hamlet of one farm called Cow Ark, then on through the Forest of Bowland. The Forest of Bowland is part in Lancashire and part in North Yorkshire, and has moorland, bogs, and rare birds, some of which we were fortunate to see. I heard the harrier hawks before I saw them, but husband spotted them swooping. Not to mention the old Hurricane we heard first and then saw, at very close range when we were high up on the moors.

On our way to Slaidburn, we passed Browsholme Hall, though the only part of it you could actually see from the road was this gate, and that was by trespassing ever so slightly onto the private drive. Well worth it though, especially the stag sitting on top of the wall.

Slaidburn, with a Youth Hostel, Village Shop, pub and war memorial, was the beginning of the Skaithe road, that ascends high into the Lancashire moors.

The landscape is dramatic and there were a handful of cars. A few cyclists passed us going uphill, but we are accustomed to that now. We can tell easily by their helmets. Ours are sort of round with a tiny visor; theirs are sleek and aerodynamic. I keep telling husband we are leisure cyclists; they are competitive cyclists, training to get fitter and go faster. We just want to get to John O’ Groats.

We had a short day today, just under 50 miles, as we are staying at Yealand Manor, with friends Peter has made through his infamous motorbike adventures. We arrived early, Jan gave us tea and both she and Matthew are providing wonderful hospitality in their beautiful home.

Yealand is just at the southern end of the Lake District. This is where we have a very short day tomorrow, which was originally our rest day. I will be sorry to leave Lancashire. It is somewhere to return to, even on bicycles.